Traditional Smoking vs Liquid Smoke

At Salamander Sauce Company, we use smoked sea salt in two of our three hot sauces. When we started researching smoking methods, we discovered that the science is more complex—and more unsettled—than most articles acknowledge. Here's what the research actually shows, where the gaps are, and why we made the choices we did.

By Timothy Kavarnos, Founder | Salamander Sauce Company

Quick Answer

The EU banned eight liquid smoke products in 2024 after EFSA found that two compounds—furan-2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol—exceeded safety thresholds by over 1,700 times. Yet traditional smoking wasn't banned at all. This regulatory decision was about jurisdiction over food additives, not a determination that one method is safer than another.

What we don't know: Whether smoked salt, smoked paprika, or traditionally smoked foods contain the same genotoxic compounds at concerning levels. The EU has commissioned studies to find out. Until then, anyone claiming one smoke method is definitively safer than another is getting ahead of the science.

"Fire transforms rather than destroys. But understanding how it transforms matters."

What Is Liquid Smoke?

Liquid smoke is exactly what it sounds like: smoke captured in liquid form. Wood chips or sawdust are burned in a controlled environment, and the resulting smoke passes through a condenser where it cools and liquefies. The liquid is filtered to remove tars and impurities, then bottled.

The result is a concentrated smoke flavoring that can add barbecue-style smokiness to foods without actually smoking them.

A Brief History

Ernest H. Wright, a Kansas City pharmacist, is credited with commercializing liquid smoke in 1895. As a teenager working in a print shop, he noticed liquid dripping from the stove pipe—smoke condensing when it hit cold air. Wright eventually developed a method to capture and sell this condensed smoke, initially to farmers for preserving meats. Wright's Liquid Smoke, now owned by B&G Foods, is still sold today.^[1]

How Liquid Smoke Is Made

The basic production process involves four steps:

1. Burning: Wood chips or sawdust (hickory, mesquite, applewood, etc.) are burned in a controlled chamber
2. Condensation: Smoke rises through a condenser where it meets cold water and liquefies
3. Settling: The mixture sits for days while insoluble compounds settle out
4. Filtration: Multiple filtration stages remove tars and particulate matter

The quality—and safety profile—of the final product depends heavily on wood source, temperature control, and filtration processes.

What's Actually in Liquid Smoke

Understanding the EU ban requires knowing what smoke actually contains. According to research published in Food Chemistry, liquid smoke contains three main classes of compounds:^[2]

Compound Class	Examples	Function
Phenolic compounds	Syringol, guaiacol, catechol (benzene-1,2-diol)	Smoky flavor, antioxidant properties
Carbonyl compounds	Furan-2(5H)-one, cyclopentenone	Sweet/caramel notes, color development
Organic acids	Acetic acid, propionic acid	Preservation, pH control

Here's what matters: the compounds that give liquid smoke its flavor are the same compounds that raised safety concerns. Furan-2(5H)-one contributes sweet, caramel notes. Benzene-1,2-diol (catechol) contributes burnt, phenolic flavor. These aren't contaminants that can be filtered out—they're core flavor molecules.

The EU Ban: What Actually Happened

In November 2023, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) published assessments of eight smoke flavoring products. In July 2024, the EU formally decided not to renew their authorizations.^[3]

The finding wasn't about PAHs. For years, the industry focused on reducing polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons—the carcinogenic compounds formed during combustion. Filtration processes successfully reduced PAH levels in liquid smoke.

The finding was about genotoxicity. EFSA identified two compounds—furan-2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol—that showed genotoxic effects (DNA damage) in animal studies. They applied the Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC) for DNA-reactive mutagens: 0.0025 μg/kg body weight per day.^[4]

The Key Number

For proFagus Smoke R714 (SF-001), EFSA calculated that exposure to furan-2(5H)-one exceeded the safety threshold by at least 1,720 times at maximum proposed use levels.^[5]

That's not 2x or 10x—it's orders of magnitude above what EFSA considers acceptable for DNA-reactive substances.

The Industry Response

Kerry Group, one of the major liquid smoke manufacturers, has contested the decision. Their position:^[6]

• EFSA agreed that genotoxicity tests on the complete products were negative—no harmful effects were observed when testing the whole mixture
• The concern was based on individual components (furan-2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol), not the product as a whole
• These compounds "are not unique to smoke flavourings and are present in many common foods"
• EFSA took a "conservative approach"—considering worst-case scenarios

This is a genuine scientific dispute, not corporate spin. The question of how to assess complex mixtures when individual components show genotoxicity is legitimately unsettled.

Why Traditional Smoking Wasn't Banned

Here's where it gets complicated. The EU banned liquid smoke additives while allowing traditional smoking to continue. This seems paradoxical—isn't all smoke chemistry similar?

The answer is regulatory, not scientific.

• Jurisdiction: EU Regulation 2065/2003 governs smoke flavoring additives, not cooking methods. The EU can regulate what goes into food as an additive; it cannot ban how people cook.
• Cultural protection: Traditional smoked products like Pimentón de la Vera (smoked paprika) and various smoked meats have Protected Designation of Origin status. Banning centuries-old traditions would be politically impossible.
• Precautionary principle: Applies differently to novel industrial additives versus traditional practices.

The European Commission stated explicitly: "EFSA's opinions only concern smoke flavourings, not traditionally smoked foods."^[7]

What the EU Is Doing Next

The EU has commissioned EFSA to perform a comparative risk assessment on different smoking processes. There's also discussion of monitoring furan-2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol in traditionally smoked meat, cheese, and fish.^[8]

In other words: regulators know this isn't settled. They've banned the products they have authority over while commissioning research on everything else.

"The honest answer is often 'we don't fully know yet.' That's not a weakness—it's the starting point for getting it right."

The p53 Study: Context Matters

A 2013 Johns Hopkins study tested various foods and flavorings for DNA-damaging potential using p53 activation as a marker. The results have been widely cited—and often misunderstood.^[9]

What they found:

• Liquid smoke flavoring showed up to 30-fold increases in p53 activity—comparable to the chemotherapy drug etoposide
• Black and green teas and coffee also showed high p53 activation
• Smoked paprika did not activate p53 to the same levels
• Hickory smoke powders showed minimal p53 effects

What this means—and doesn't mean:

p53 activation indicates DNA stress, but it's not necessarily harmful. p53 is often called the "guardian of the genome"—it triggers repair mechanisms. Tea and coffee activate p53 yet are associated with lower cancer risk in epidemiological studies. The lead researcher, Dr. Scott Kern, explicitly stated the study doesn't suggest people should stop using these products—just that more research is needed.

The interesting finding for our purposes: smoked paprika and hickory smoke powder didn't show the same p53 activation as liquid smoke. This suggests the form/matrix of smoked products may matter—concentrated liquid smoke behaves differently than smoke adsorbed onto solid substrates like salt or paprika.

What About Smoked Salt?

Here's what we actually know:

In 2017, the Austrian Agency for Health and Food Safety (AGES) tested 22 samples of smoked salt from across Austria for PAH content. Their finding: all samples were compliant with PAH regulations. Four samples were rejected—two for labeling issues, two for packaging requirements—but none exceeded PAH safety limits.^[10]

Here's what we don't know:

• Whether smoked salt contains furan-2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol at concerning levels (no studies have specifically tested for these)
• Whether the matrix effect (smoke adsorbed onto salt crystals) changes the risk profile
• Whether the dosage in typical culinary use (a pinch of salt vs. grams of liquid smoke in processed food) makes a meaningful difference

We can't claim smoked salt is safer. The specific studies on genotoxic compounds in smoked salt haven't been done. And the "dosage" argument has limits—smoked salt isn't always just a finishing pinch. In our own Whiskey-infused sauce, smoked salt is about 4.5% of the recipe by weight. That's a meaningful amount for daily users, not a trace.

The honest position: we don't know whether smoked salt contains furan-2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol at concerning levels. We chose it for transparency and control, not because we can prove it's safer.

Alternatives to Liquid Smoke

If you want smoky flavor without liquid smoke—whether due to the EU situation, ingredient transparency preferences, or simply wanting different options—here's what's available:

Smoked Salt

Salt smoked over wood fires absorbs smoke compounds directly onto the crystal structure. You can see "smoked sea salt" or "hickory smoked salt" clearly on ingredient labels—no mystery about what's in the product.

What we know: PAH-compliant per Austrian AGES testing. What we don't know: Whether it contains furan-2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol at concerning levels—no studies have tested for this.

Smoked Paprika (Pimentón de la Vera)

Peppers dried over oak wood fires for 10-15 days. Protected Designation of Origin product from Spain. The Johns Hopkins study found smoked paprika did not activate p53 like liquid smoke did.

Advantages: Traditional process, adds color and flavor complexity, minimal p53 activation in lab studies. Consideration: Some studies have found elevated PAH levels in smoked paprika—though still within regulatory limits for typical consumption.^[11]

Chipotle Peppers

Smoke-dried jalapeños. Traditional Mexican production uses pecan or mesquite wood, smoking for 6+ days. Combines smokiness with heat in one ingredient.

Actual Smoking

If you have the equipment and time, traditional smoking gives you direct control over wood type, temperature, and duration. Process control matters here—uncontrolled traditional smoking can exceed PAH safety limits by 10x or more, while controlled methods can stay well within limits.

Kerry's New "Fire UP" Products

In response to the EU ban, Kerry Group has developed "EU compliant alternatives" including smoked sugar, smoked maltodextrin, smoked garlic powder, smoked onion powder, and smoked vinegar.^[12] These are essentially the same category as smoked salt—smoke flavor captured on a solid substrate rather than concentrated in liquid form.

Our Approach at Salamander

We use hickory smoked sea salt in our Original and Whiskey-infused sauces. Here's our reasoning—and what we can't claim:

Why we chose smoked salt:

• Ingredient transparency: "Smoked sea salt" on a label tells you exactly what you're getting. "Natural smoke flavor" doesn't.
• Control: We can specify exactly how much goes in and adjust it precisely.
• Philosophy: We build flavor from real, recognizable ingredients—fresh vegetables, real bourbon, smoked salt—not industrial flavor concentrates.

What we can't claim:

• That smoked salt is safer than liquid smoke on genotoxicity grounds—those studies haven't been done
• That the "dosage is lower"—our Whiskey sauce contains about 4.5% smoked salt by weight, which is a meaningful amount for regular users
• That we've avoided the compounds EFSA flagged—we simply don't know if they're present in smoked salt

We chose smoked salt because we prefer knowing exactly what's in our products and being able to tell you clearly what's in yours. That's a transparency and philosophy choice, not a safety claim.

Our Tropical sauce contains no smoked ingredients at all—an option if you want to avoid smoke flavor entirely.

📚 Related Reading

• → Why Salamander Sauce is Different
• → What Makes a Hot Sauce Artisanal?
• → Try Our Whiskey-Infused Hot Sauce

Frequently Asked Questions

Is liquid smoke banned in the United States?

No. The FDA considers liquid smoke Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS). The EU ban applies only within Europe. Liquid smoke remains legal and widely used in the US, Canada, UK, and most other countries.

What exactly did the EU ban?

Eight specific smoke flavoring primary products used as food additives. These are industrial smoke concentrates used in processed foods. The ban does not affect traditionally smoked foods, smoked salt, smoked paprika, or home use of liquid smoke products not sold as food additives in the EU.

What are furan-2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol?

These are compounds that form when wood burns. Furan-2(5H)-one (also called γ-crotonolactone) is found in coffee, bread, and many heat-treated foods. Benzene-1,2-diol (catechol) has antioxidant properties but can generate DNA-damaging compounds through oxidation. Both contribute to smoke flavor—they're not contaminants that can be filtered out.

Is smoked salt safer than liquid smoke?

We don't know. Smoked salt passes PAH testing, but no one has tested it for the genotoxic compounds (furan-2(5H)-one and benzene-1,2-diol) that triggered the EU ban on liquid smoke. The Johns Hopkins study found that smoked paprika and hickory smoke powder didn't activate p53 like liquid smoke did—but we don't have an explanation for why, and that study wasn't looking at the same compounds EFSA flagged. Anyone claiming smoked salt is definitively safer is getting ahead of the available research.

Is traditional smoking safer than liquid smoke?

It depends on what you're measuring. For PAHs: controlled liquid smoke typically has lower levels than uncontrolled traditional smoking. For the genotoxic compounds (furan-2(5H)-one, benzene-1,2-diol): traditional smoking hasn't been systematically tested yet. The EU has commissioned studies to find out.

Why did the Johns Hopkins study find that smoked paprika didn't activate p53 like liquid smoke?

The researchers didn't fully explain this finding. Possibilities include: different compound profiles, matrix effects (smoke on solid substrate vs. concentrated liquid), or dosage differences in how the products were tested. More research would be needed to understand the mechanism.

Should I stop using liquid smoke?

That's a personal decision. The EU ban is based on a precautionary approach to food additives—not proof of harm at typical consumption levels. The same compounds (furan-2(5H)-one, benzene-1,2-diol) exist in coffee, bread, and many other foods. If you're concerned, alternatives like smoked salt or smoked paprika let you get smoky flavor through different pathways—though their specific safety profiles on these compounds haven't been studied either.

What about PAHs in smoked foods?

PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons) are a separate concern from the genotoxic compounds that triggered the EU ban. PAHs are regulated in the EU with maximum limits for various food categories. Properly filtered liquid smoke typically has low PAH levels. Traditional smoking can have higher PAH levels if not controlled. Understanding how to read labels helps identify what's in your food.

Does Salamander Sauce contain liquid smoke?

No. We use hickory smoked sea salt in our Original and Whiskey-infused varieties for controlled smoky flavor. Our Tropical sauce contains no smoked ingredients. You can see our complete ingredient lists on our shop page.

Three Sauces. Real Ingredients. Clear Labels.

Smoked sea salt in two. No smoke in one. 25-50mg sodium. Same process for nearly two decades.

Try Our Whiskey-Infused Sauce

References

1. [1] Wikipedia. "Liquid smoke." Accessed December 2024. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_smoke
2. [2] Montazeri N, et al. "Chemical characterization of commercial liquid smoke products." Food Science & Nutrition. 2013;1(1):102-115. PMC3951573
3. [3] Commission Implementing Decision (EU) 2024/2066 of 31 July 2024. EUR-Lex.
4. [4] EFSA FAF Panel. "Scientific opinion on the renewal of the authorisation of Smoke Concentrate 809045 (SF-003)." EFSA Journal. 2023;21(11):8365.
5. [5] EFSA FAF Panel. "Scientific opinion on the renewal of the authorisation of proFagus Smoke R714 (SF-001)." EFSA Journal. 2023;21(11):8363. PMC10652307
6. [6] Kerry Group. "Safety & Regulation - Smoke Flavourings." smokeflavourings.info. Accessed December 2024.
7. [7] European Commission statement on smoke flavourings, 2024.
8. [8] Kerry Group. "Fire UP™ Smoke Taste Solutions." explore.kerry.com. Accessed December 2024.
9. [9] Hossain MZ, Gilbert SF, Patel K, et al. "Biological clues to potent DNA-damaging activities in food and flavoring." Food and Chemical Toxicology. 2013;55:557-567.
10. [10] Austrian Agency for Health and Food Safety (AGES). "PAHs in smoked salt." Final Report A-004-17. September 2017.
11. [11] BfR. "Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in smoked paprika powder." Opinion 018/2023. March 2024.
12. [12] Kerry Group. "Fire UP™ Smoke Taste Solutions - EU compliant alternatives to smoke flavourings." 2024.

About Timothy Kavarnos

Timothy founded Salamander Sauce after years working New York restaurants—front of house and kitchen, describing dishes, pairing wines, tasting with chefs, learning what makes people light up. That experience shaped his approach: sauce that works with food, not against it. Brooklyn-based, still tasting every batch.

Learn more about Timothy and Salamander Sauce →

Salamander Sauce Company. Born in Brooklyn, made in New York's Hudson Valley. All natural, low sodium, clean label.